Water: Upon receiving, check water level. If it’s lower than one inch, add cool water to about one inch from top. Change water daily by gently pouring water out, then fill with cool water. If it’s a large arrangement, or pouring water out seems daunting, an alternate method is to simply add fresh water daily into the center of the vase with a narrow spout watering can or water bottle.

Light: Keep your florals out of direct sun and darkness. Indirect bright light is best.

Air: Keep away from cold and hot drafts. An air conditioned environment will help flowers last longer. The cooler the environment, the longer they’ll live. This of course excludes freezing conditions.

Refrigeration: Your fresh florals are hand-selected 24 hours before your order, cleaned and prepped, and stored in our 65 degree air conditioned studio up to 8 hours for optimal pre-hydration, then designed next-day and delivered. This ideal temperature, processing technique, and no-waste method ensures you the freshest, longest lasting flowers possible.

We don’t recommend putting your florals in your home fridge unless it’s completely devoid of fruits and vegetables. Most fruits and veggies emit ethylene gas which shortens the life of and browns most flowers. For this reason, we don’t arrange with fruits & veggies unless requested.

Refresh: Some flowers and foliage in your arrangement may outlive others. Simply remove items as they perish, or take the freshest parts and arrange them into a clean, sterile vase with fresh water.

How-to Sterilize a Vase: Hand wash with dish soap until all slimy parts and debris are completely gone. Sit out or towel dry. Take a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol/water solution and saturate freshly washed vase with a spray bottle on mist setting, or saturate a paper towel and wipe down. Let the solution set for 5-10 minutes, rinse and pat dry.

Water Temperature: A general rule of thumb is to use warm to almost hot water for woody/brown and hard stems, and cool to cold water for fleshy/soft bright green stems. If you’re unsure which temperature to use, simply stick with tepid, room temperature water.

How-to Refresh: Fill a clean, sterile vase with the correct water temperature for your florals, set aside. Remove any foliage that would be submerged beneath the water. All foliage should be above the opening of the vase. Removing more foliage will ensure the blooms get more of the hydration. Cut your stem with a sharp, sterile gardening sheers or floral knife at a 45 degree angle to maximize water absorption. The shorter you cut your flowers, the longer they will last. This is because the water has a shorter journey to the blossom.


Phalaenopsis “Moth” Orchid

Light: Keep in a bright, indirect light environment. Keep out of direct sun or in dark environments. Make sure their leaves never become hot. If this happens, move to a cooler but still indirect light location. If your orchid is placed next to a window, make sure it’s about unobstructed by curtains or touching other objects.

Air: 65-80 degrees is ideal for Phalaenopsis orchids, but they will tolerate slightly more or less. A good rule of thumb is: if you’re comfortable, it’s likely they’ll be comfortable. Keep out of direct cold or hot drafts. It’s ok to keep a Phalaenopsis in an air conditioned room, provided that the ideal temperatures are kept and they’re out of the direct line of air flow. Same for heating systems.

Water: Will all depend on how warm your environment is. Ideally, allow the orchid to almost dry out between waterings while in its current potting media. Your new Phalaenopsis has come potted in sphagnum moss, which retains water. Do not over-water, it’s the most common mistake people make when caring for this orchid! Place a finger down beneath the top layer of decorative rock or moss into the potting media. If it’s mostly dry with a hint of moisture, it’s time to water. Add 1/2 - 1 cup room temperature water at the very base of the plant. Do not water the crown or leaves of the plant. Use a paper towel to dry off crown or leaves if watered by accident. On average you might water around once a week, or once every other week, again depending on time of year/environment temperature/how thirsty your orchid is. Adjust watering as necessary. Leaves should be shiny and perky, never wrinkled, floppy, or yellowing. A humidifier will help, but is not necessary.


Sometime not long ago, people from a non-tropical land started using ice cubes as a sort of lazy-man’s watering hack. Ice cubes should never be used. Most orchids are tropical and epiphytic or lithophytic in nature, meaning they live in warm environments attached to trees or rocks with their root systems exposed, absorbing moisture from the air. Don’t. use. ice. cubes. - Treat your orchid with love and respect while in your care and your reward will be longer lasting blooms, healthier root systems, and an overall happier, shinier plant with more chance for success if you plan to keep it post-flower.

Fertilizing: A good general rule of thumb would be weakly weekly using an all-purpose orchid food mix. Following the directions the fertilizer came with, simply divide by its instructions to suit weekly watering during the active growing season (spring through summer.) For instance: 1/4 teaspoon fertilizer to one gallon water every two weeks = 1/8 teaspoon to one gallon water every week. Don’t fertilize during dormant seasons. (autumn-winter.)

Maintenance: Dust the upper part of the leaves with a dry paper towel or rag. Never touch or wipe beneath the leaves as touching can clog its pores, losing its ability to “breath.” Do not cut off aerial roots (roots growing outside of the potting media), they absorb moisture and are a plan b for the orchid if it loses some of its primary roots. Pinch off or snip dead buds as they appear. When the orchid has finished blooming, it’s a good time to repot it if you wish to continue caring for it. See post-flower care below. COMING SOON

Oncidium Hybrids:

Light: Oncidium orchids like bright light environments. They will like direct morning sun, but avoid direct noon-till-evening sun. Can be kept in a direct sun spot if filtered through a mesh curtain. Be sure that the foliage doesn’t heat up. If the foliage gets too hot, it’s an indication it could burn. Move to an indirect bright light spot. Low light will result in the orchid not blooming, so keeping in a bright light environment is best.

Water: Oncidium like to stay moist, but not sopping wet. Add 1/2 cup to 1 cup per week. Adjust as necessary if you notice the aerial roots or top soil is dry/too wet. The pseudobulbs should be plump, never wrinkly. Check the potting media by placing your finger down into the potting media. If it’s just slightly moist nearing dry, it’s time to water.

Air: Fresh air circulation is ideal. Keep away from cold and hot drafts. Oncidium’s ideal temperature is around 64 at night to 85 during the day. If the environment is comfortable for you, it’s likely that it’s perfect for your Oncidium. In the long term, this evening temperature drop will help induce blooming again.